How to Build Your Wardrobe With Your Best Colors – Part 1
The first thing people notice about you is the color you are wearing. Color has the power to influence your emotions and those of the people around you. It also has the power to enhance your personal appearance. Who doesn’t want to look their best?
When you wear a color that is right for you, your personal coloring comes alive – your skin glows, your eyes are bright, and your hair is filled with highlights. The wrong color can overpower or drain you, cast shadows that emphasize under-eye circles, or dull your hair and eyes. At its worse, the wrong color can be aging!
The good news is color is free with every garment you buy. It doesn’t cost any more to buy that blouse in a color that makes you glow than to buy it in a color that does nothing for you; worse yet, one that makes you look tired or older.
Knowing your best colors can save you money!
The closet of the average American woman represents a minimum investment of $3000. Knowing your best colors guides that investment in the most positive direction and reduces impulse buying. And shopping with your best colors in mind creates a natural harmony within your wardrobe, leading to “happy accidents” – things just seem to go together!
How do you identify your best colors?
Pay close attention to what people say. Unsolicited compliments like, “You look terrific!” are usually given because the speaker is reacting to the positive effect of a color on you. However, if they say “Wow, that’s a gorgeous color!” they are often reacting to the color, and not to its effect on you.
Look in your closet. What colors are your “reliables”? What colors are the items you never wear? Take note.
Most people have heard of color analysis but few understand the theory behind it. The color wheel is a systematic representation of all of the colors we see, organized according to the proportion of warm yellow pigment or cool blue pigment each color contains.
Just as colors are classified by temperature, humans can be described as warm or cool based on their personal coloring. Professional Color Consultants agree – the most flattering colors are those that “connect” with your body coloring: skin tone, hair and eyes.
On a very basic level, you can begin to identify your best colors by looking at yourself with a close eye. Better yet, get together with a friend and help one another. Here are simple tests to help you identify the “temperature” of your personal coloring:
- Look at the palms of your hands. If you see blue, pink, red-violet or rosy tones, you are likely to look best in cool colors. If you see peach, golden, bright warm red or coral tones, warm colors are most likely your best choices.
- In a space that is well lit by natural light, stand in front of a mirror and hold gold and silver metallic paper or fabric alternately near your face. If the gold is more harmonious, your undertones are probably warm. If silver is more flattering, your undertones are probably cool.
- If your skin tone seems in-between, then look closely at your eyes. Black, very dark brown, grey, blue, and blue-violet eye colors are usually associated with a cool palette.
Brown, green, and hazel eyes with a warmer palette.
Note: This is just a beginning! There are other characteristics to consider, including the value and intensity of your personal coloring, so these tests don’t pinpoint your very best colors, but they can steer you away from the range of colors that are wrong for you.
Should you have a professional color analysis?
The most popular method for identifying someone’s best colors is to correlate their personal coloring with the four seasons – winter, spring, summer, fall. The seasons provide a template for defining the temperature (cool or warm), value (light or dark), and intensity (clear or muted) of colors that are the most flattering for you to wear.
Every woman has a color palette all her own. Some women fit neatly into one of those seasonal stereotypes, but many do not because their personal color patterns fall within a range of each characteristic. If you are within the latter group, I highly recommend an analysis by a well-trained and experienced professional color consultant. I had my colors done in the late 70’s and they’ve been a critical part of my personal wardrobe planning ever since. Because our pigmentation diminishes as we age – causing our personal coloring to soften – I recently visited my “color guru” for an update. (Send me an email and I’ll share his contact information.)
If you prefer to go it alone, my favorite reference on understanding the connection between personal coloring and identifying one’s best colors is Looking Good … Every Day by Nancy Nix-Rice (Palmer/Pletsch Publications). Nancy will help you navigate the variations in temperature, value, and intensity that lead to your personal best colors.
You’ve had your colors done – now what?
Building a wardrobe based on your most flattering colors is both an art and a science. It can take three to five years of conscious effort to develop a wardrobe that is totally keyed to your personal color palette, so be patient.
Do you throw out your “not-so-good-colors” and replace them with new? Do you toss out your go-to blacks because you were told not to wear black? Do you throw away your favorite white shirts because they are “not your white”? Assuming these are all quality items in your closet, my answer is “no”. You add your new colors slowly.
Here are guidelines I give my clients:
1. Resolve to make all new wardrobe purchases in your best colors.
2. What you wear closest to your face matters the most. If a suit is in a “less optimal” color, add a blouse in one of your best colors. If a dress is the wrong color, wear a scarf or necklace in a flattering color(s).
3. Consider dyeing a washable garment in a not-so-flattering color to one that makes you sparkle.
4. Should you wear a color not recommended by your color consultant? It’s my belief that if it makes you feel terrific, your personality and positive attitude will overcome the color negatives!
Case Study
My client Diane just had a professional color analysis, receiving a customized fabric chart of her best colors: her skin tones, her hair color, her eye color; plus those reds, greens, blues and yellows that are most flattering to her personal coloring.
When Diane came home to her closet, she saw a collection of black, brown, grey and white. These were perfect wardrobe basics that could be mixed and matched for multiple looks, but she realized she’d been hiding behind neutrals far too long. (Having your colors done can be a wonderful process of self-discovery!)
We went shopping with her new color card for tops and accessories to add color to her wardrobe – and her life! With just a few new purchases – a jacket and blouses in her red, yellow and blue – to wear with her current black and brown basics. She now dresses in her best colors to enhance her personal coloring and appearance. And she incurred minimum expense because she built on what was already in her wardrobe.
What about that little black dress she loves (but was told not to wear)? We added a fabulous necklace in her “exciting” blues, thwarting the effect of black on her skin tone while making a terrific fashion statement!
In my next post I’ll talk about specific color groups and how to use them in your wardrobe.
How to Buy the Perfect White Shirt
In the middle of my own Spring/Summer “closet audit” I counted ten white cotton shirts…and I’m not retiring any of them! A white cotton shirt is crisp, clean and sophisticated. It provides instant polish whether worn on its own or under a suit or sweater. It’s the ultimate all-season wardrobe essential. As many of my clients have agreed, you really can’t have too many!
A classic white shirt can bridge from business to travel to casual. I’ve worn my long-sleeved shirts under business suit jackets in the winter, with just a sweater over my shoulders in the spring and fall, and with a pair of jeans year-round. A sleeveless white shirt worn under a jacket was my savior for business during hot summer days in New York City – crisp yet cool. As for the ones with French cuffs (yes, I used to love to wear fancy cuff links to work!) – I simply roll the cuff up now for my new non-corporate lifestyle. And because most of my shirts are “no-iron,” they travel beautifully!
With so many versions of a classic white shirt available, how do you select the one that’s right for you?
Halsbrook (one of my favorite online stores to window-shop!) recently shared the details they look for when selecting shirts to sell on their website:
- Structured collar: The shirt collar brightens the face and adds a refined finish. Shirts with substantial, sturdy collars that will stay standing are a must.
- Stretch cotton: Adding a bit of stretch to your classic cotton shirt staves off wrinkling and allows for comfortable all-day wear.
- Seaming: Regardless of your body shape, when it comes to cotton shirts, a tailored style is always more flattering than a loose sack shape. Princess seaming or darting ensure smooth, long lines in body-skimming styles.
- Sheer Factor: Lightweight enough to be layered and opaque enough to wear without an underpinning. No need to fear unwanted lingerie exposure.
- Shirttail: A rounded shirttail hem reduces bulk when tucking in and draws attention to your center as opposed to your hips when worn out.
My all time favorite crisp white shirt is a Brooks Brothers Non-Iron Dress Shirt specially treated to remain virtually wrinkle-free and machine washable. And it has many fit options (Classic Fit, Fitted & Tailored in Regular & Petite). A friend of mine recently purchased three Brooks Brothers men’s shirts on sale to wear open over her tank tops and pants. Note: She shortened the shirttail hems and added lengthwise darts for a more flattering fit.
I’m also a fan of Chico’s ¾-length sleeved white no iron blouse collection for the spring & summer as they are a little less “classic” in style. I have three: one that’s closely fitted that I wear both tucked in and out and another I purchased one size larger to wear out and “belted” with a colorful scarf tied around my waist. My third is tunic length that I wear with leggings; and it’s perfect for travel, doubling as a shirt jacket or bathing suit cover-up.
But is white for everyone? Nancy Nix-Rice, author of Looking Good…Every Day: Style Solutions for Real Women, considers the classic “must have” white shirt a “fashion myth”…and for a justifiable reason: Bright white doesn’t flatter everyone. Your “white” shirt might be soft white, ivory, or even a very pale pastel (such as mint or blush) if that’s what makes you light up.
I totally agree that bright white looks best on women with lots of contrast in their coloring, like dark hair and light skin…but I personally love the versatility of the white shirt, so with the brighter whites, I take care to brighten my makeup for more contrast in my coloring, or add a scarf or sweater around my shoulders.
What if classic is not your style? Because a simple, classic white shirt is much like a man’s shirt, you may feel uncomfortable in it. If your style is more romantic, look for a shirt with ruffles. If you’re sporty, choose something in a fabric that is anything but stiff. If you’re dramatic, look for a blouse with an element that stands out, such as a bold collar detail. Naracamicie, a unique Italian shirt & blouse retailer soon to open stores in the U.S., has several fabulous designs to choose from.
What about fit? No matter what your size, ensuring the right fit and proportion is key to looking your best. The most important things to consider are how a shirt fits over your bust and on your shoulders.
1. Bust – You want the shirt to fit closely, but not so closely that it clings to your sides or gaps between the buttons. The best way to test actual fit is to see how the shirt will wear throughout the day. Don’t just stand and look at yourself in the mirror; sit down, too. When you sit, your shoulders and back will relax and spread so you can test for clinging and gapping and overall comfort across your back.
2. Shoulder seams – Make sure they skim the edge of your shoulder bone. The rest of the garment hangs in balance so achieving proper shoulder placement is critical for excellent fit.
“I have been wearing a white blouse all my life…They are classic with a modern twist and they are very feminine, for a real woman. It is about simplicity — they don’t look complicated — it has to look effortless.” Carolina Herrera
(Photos from Pinterest)
Wake Up Your Winter Wardrobe
It’s the end of January and winter is in full swing with the “polar vortex” having made another round through the east, both north and south! It’s enough to give you the blues or make you want to pull the covers over your head and stay in bed. But we all need to move through our day … and our wardrobe needs to support us.
Does your closet inspire you or is it experiencing a deep freeze, too? With most stores offering deep discounts during clearance sales, it’s tempting to run out and buy something new … and risk dipping into your clothing budget on something you don’t need (save it for spring additions!). Better to shop in your own closet to wake up your wardrobe.
Here’s a four-step process to help you refresh your winter basics:
1. Get inspired – Flip through magazines and catalogs or surf the Internet. It won’t cost you anything to do a little research and see how items similar to those you own are put together to create various looks.
2. Mix up your pieces – If you’ve been wearing your clothes in the same combinations over and over, now’s the time to look at each piece differently. Lay different tops and bottoms out on your bed and start putting together new combinations – dressy tops with tailored pants and a jacket for work, or with a sweater and a pair of jeans for the weekend. Think out of the box: combine different textures and colors than you’ve done in the past. Create “scarecrows” of new looks, then take a picture so you don’t forget them.
3. Add Color – especially if you’ve been living in dark colors or black since the fall. If you’ve had your colors done, know that nearly any two colors in your palette can be used together so don’t hold back. (For those unexpected color mixes, a scarf or a piece of jewelry with both colors in it will link them together … and give you comfort that it works!)
I had great fun going into my closet and discovering that a favorite jacket in regal purple from my corporate days, teamed with a yellow t-shirt and my basic black jeans gave me an emotional lift – and gave my jacket renewed purpose in my now much more casual lifestyle. (Purple + Yellow = an attention-getting contrast color scheme.)
4. Scarves … tie them on! Great for adding a pop of color and/or a print or pattern, scarves multiply the way you can wear your basics. My dark colored pants & matching turtlenecks can be energized with a different scarf each day. And a print scarf can link a more colorful top with my neutral brown pants. (My dark orange scarf + teal blue sweater = another contrast color scheme … much more imaginative than brown + beige!)
So when you’re tempted to reach for those dark neutrals, take yourself out of the winter blahs – dig deeper into your closet, and go from drab to fab without busting the bank!
Three Quick Wardrobe Strategies for the Holidays
December brings the fun – and frenzy – of holiday activities. I suggest you streamline your wardrobe so you don’t waste time and energy wondering what to wear as you meet the multiple demands of the season. That’s being smart!
Make a list of what’s on your calendar, special events you’ll be attending, and when you’ll need to go from one venue to another (for example, from the office to a cocktail party; from a day of sightseeing right into dinner; or from your child’s school event to a holiday concert).
Choose just a few go-to pieces that will meet your needs. These looks can be as subtle or overt as you like, but the goal is that these pieces be versatile, comfortable, make you feel great and look “smartly stylish” (read “chic”)!
Start with one core item and build from there. Here are three strategies for three lifestyles:
1. Career – Your core may be a dress or a suit. Use accessories and fabrics to change your outfit from desk to dinner-appropriate: Switch to a silk or silky blouse and switch from your classic pumps to a strappy heel.
2. Travel – Scarves, costume jewelry and glitter – in a top, a shawl, or scarf – and an evening clutch are my favorites for dressing up those basic black pants that take me from museum to shopping to dinner on a holiday city tour.
3. Casual – Start with a pant, legging or dark wash jean. Then choose a top for each event on your list (and yes, this might be the right time to find a sparkly sweater on sale!) Add a jacket or cozy wrap cardigan (active lifestyles beg for fabrics with stretch for comfort). For holiday flair, slip on a pair of embellished flats or heels, perhaps something in a glittery metallic.
With so much else going on, now is the time to stick to what you know, and most of all, what feels good. Just because it’s comfy doesn’t mean it’s not chic – when you choose the right pieces, your simple uniform can take you through your days and into your nights without missing a beat!
Wardrobe for a Fall Trip to New York – Black, Brown & Leather!
I’m traveling north this week for a family visit then into New York City for a mix of business and pleasure. Fall comes with abrupt weather changes, which means careful planning on what to pack so that I’m prepared for all scheduled events and weather changes, and still travel light. My trip will be a week in duration, with three days in Manhattan. As I plan my wardrobe, I’ll follow the basic principles I recommend to all women to travel in style and keep luggage light:
1. Plan ahead. Plan what to pack based on the weather (check your weather app up to the moment you zip your suitcase) and what your activities might be, then pack the right clothes for the climate and your events. Ignore the urge to add in “but what if…” items. Pack for what is known and logical possibilities – rain is logical, an impromptu formal dinner is not. After all, if something that unexpected comes up, shopping is part of the fun of any trip!
2. Stick to neutrals. At this time of the year, I prefer black or brown for my core pieces – they coordinate easily, hide stains, and don’t scream “I’m a tourist” in New York. You might choose dark gray or navy, both of which will also help you blend in with New Yorkers.
3. Choose versatile pieces that can mix and match. I’ll be wearing some items more than once (the right jacket can work casually with jeans and also be dressed up for dinner). I take more tops than bottoms (they’re lighter to pack) and every top must go with every bottom to maximize my options.
4. Accessorize with lightweight jewelry, belts, and scarves to achieve several different looks. Seeing someone more than once? They’ll admire your creativity!
5. If colder weather is forecasted, don’t pack a bulky sweater. Instead, pack a thin sweater to layer over a turtleneck or shirt – they’re more versatile and take less space to pack. (I have two ribbed silk crew neck pullover sweaters that are long-time favorites that will make this trip.)
6. Jersey is a great fabric for fall travel. It’s lightweight, won’t wrinkle, has comfort stretch…and is sexy yet sporty! (Not exactly sexy, but I’ll add my long-sleeved cotton jersey turtlenecks into the mix.)
7. Take comfortable shoes…and no more than 3 pairs. You won’t have a good time anywhere if your feet hurt. Shoes are bulky and heavy so three pairs are the maximum for most trips.
How many pieces do I need to pack?
For this trip I’ll be packing black & brown basics, crisp white shirts, knit turtlenecks, silk sweaters to layer; and adding color accents via scarves:
• 2 pairs of pants – one black, one brown
• 1 pair of black jeans
• 8 tops (2 white shirts; black, brown, beige & white cotton turtlenecks; ribbed silk pullovers – one in black, one in beige – to wear alone or layer over shirts)
• Beige leather jacket (a fall travel favorite – see below)
• 2 pairs of shoes – a lace-up for walking and a slip-on flat for business and/or evening
• 2 scarves; 3 belts
• Raincoat (black)
Ready to travel in black, brown and leather
To see how I’ll pack my favorite 22” roller bag, you can watch this video. And if you need further help in planning your own wardrobe for a trip this fall, contact me!
Leather is a Best Pick for Fall!
I love leather jackets for travel because they don’t wrinkle. In the Fall they can be all that you need as a coat. I’ll be taking my favorite beige leather jacket I purchased over seven years ago from The Worth Collection (yes, a good leather jacket is a great investment). There’s a similar jacket in this season’s collection.
What about a handbag?
What’s the best style for moving around the big city? Wall Street Journal fashion columnist Teri Agins recently answered a reader’s question on this (WSJ, Oct. 16, 2013) recommending a flat cross-body bag that falls around your rib cage and fits snugly in front of you.
I couldn’t agree with her more. I have one from Bric’s with zipper closures and an outside compartment, where I put my MetroCard for the subway. I don’t need to carry my full wallet since I only need my smartphone, a photo ID, a health insurance card, a little cash and a credit card on me at all times. (Note: I use my credit card for all purchases, including meals and cabs, so I have a full record of expenditures.) If I’m heading into a business meeting, I tuck this bag into my business tote.
For evenings, Agins recommends packing one of the new “wristlet” bags instead of an evening clutch. Its strap loops around your forearm, leaving your fingers free to grip the bag. I love this idea and have added this to my shopping list.
Ready to go!
One last check on the weather to ensure I’ve covered my bases before shutting the suitcase and I’m off tomorrow morning! (And if I’ve forgotten anything…oh boy, I can shop in New York!)
How to Pack a Suitcase & Travel Light
Pack your suitcase with what you’ll definitely need for your trip and pare down on what you think you may need. Learn the best way to pack a suitcase with help from a travel-savvy professional in this free video clip.
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Leslie Willmott
Image & Wardrobe Consultant Founder, Smart Women On The Go Spokesperson & Packing Expert,Smart Travel Press
Asheville, NC 917.297.9686 info@smartwomenonthego.com
